July 28– August 13, 2024

The next morning, we packed up with no small amount of regret, bidding a fond farewell to the Institute pondering future opportunities to return.  We stopped in Grants Pass at the Dutch Brothers (a regional coffee chain) kiosk to get some caffeine for the road and then hit the I-5 south before turning off outside Medford to begin our climb up to Crater Lake and the National Park there.  

Joanna and I visited here for the first time in 2016 (https://3jmann.com/2016/10/31/west-coast-tour-2016-crater-lake-part-one/) and vowed to return one day, glad now to share it with Jessica and Gemma.  Established in 1902, it is the fifth-oldest national park in the United States and the only national park in Oregon, encompassing the caldera of Crater Lake, a remnant of Mount Mazama, a destroyed volcano, and the surrounding hills and forests.

At 1,949 feet deep,  it is the deepest lake in the United States, the second deepest in North America and the tenth deepest in the world.  About 400,000 years ago, Mount Mazama began its existence and after a period of dormancy, it became active again.  Then, around 5700 BC, it collapsed into itself during a tremendous volcanic eruption, losing 2,500 to 3,500 feet in height.  The eruption formed a large caldera that, depending on the prevailing climate, was filled in about 740 years.

We drove into the park hoping to get to the main lodge for its great view of the lake but instead our GPS guided us to Rim Village and the Café and small market there.  Joanna got into the queue and ordered us what would turn out to be a very good pulled pork BBQ sandwich that proved to be quite good.  We all took our food upstairs to a second-floor dining area and marveled at what little of the lake we could see from that vantage point.

This would improve as began our circuit around the southwest portion of the lake, where a couple of turnouts gave us much improved looks at this natural wonder.  Unfortunately, unlike our visit in 2016, those pesky fires and the smoke they produce partially clouded the skyline making for a less than spectacular, but still rewarding experience.  Driving across the pumice strewn flats on the north side of the Caldera, we exited the park and after an hour or so found ourselves pulling up in front of my brother Chuck’s house. 

He has lived here for fifteen years or more and we’ve visited numerous times, always enjoying the area, its beauty and its energy.  For many, it is a fine place to live with a four-season climate and every imaginable sport one can perform in the weather those seasons produce.  We unloaded the car and set up shop, Jessica and Gemma sleeping on a newly purchased queen-sized blow-up bed in the front room while Joanna and I used the guest room we’ve slept in during all of our visits. 

Dinner that night would be at a usual spot for us, the 10 Barrel Brewing tap room on Galveston, the original for this local chain which was acquired by AB-InBev in 2014 which sold it in 2023 to Tilray Brands, an international cannabis and lifestyle company.  Also included in the deal were Widmer Brothers, Square Mile Cider, Shock Top, Breckenridge Brewery, Red Hook Brewery, and Blue Point Brewing Company.

Seated inside we enjoyed a first round of beers and an order of Smoked Queso, a delightful blend of smoked cheese, diced jalapeno, tomato, and green onion that we ate with house made potato chips.  Joanna and I then split, as usual here, the Oregon Rockfish and chips with a jalapeno slaw, more than enough for the two of us, especially after powering through the cheese dip.

We finished eating and after returning to the house spent the evening enjoying some of our favorite Summer Olympic events.  The next day we drove south out of town a few miles to visit the High Desert Museum, which we have been to a couple of times, knowing it would appeal to Gemma.  Opened in 1982, it brings regional wildlife, culture, art and natural resources together to promote an understanding of the natural and cultural heritage of North America’s high desert country.

Seated on a 135 acres site, the museum was at first made up mainly of outdoor exhibits and a small building.  In 1989, the main building was expanded with a 28,000-square-foot addition, with the museum’s attendance reaching 100,000 per year.  The $5 million expansion, a gift from the Chiles Foundation, added the Earle A. Chiles Center on the Spirit of the West.  By 2016, the non-profit museum drew 170,000 visitors per year and in 2017, it was selected as a Smithsonian Affiliate institution.

One of the highlights for me is a series of displays that depict Native American life on the land before the white man, a trapper’s camp, survey party’s camp, pioneer wagon train, a mining claim, and an early 1860s town complete with blacksmith shop, Chinese mercantile, and stagecoach stop.  I hung out inside while the others went outside to watch a demonstration that included some of the museum’s raptors and came back raving about it, so I was sorry I missed it.

After the museum we drove to the Old Mill District, an historic area formerly occupied by two lumber mills that encompasses approximately 270 acres along the Deschutes River, and is now a mixed-use area known for its shops, galleries and restaurants.  We walked the length of it, hit the REI there for a few moments and then while the girls checked out the Anthropologie store, Chuck and I grabbed a seat at the bar of the Confluence Fly Shop & Craft Beer Bar to enjoy a draft beer for him and a can of pretty good Chardonnay for me. 

To celebrate Chuck’s birthday, we took him to one of his favorite restaurants, the original location of Baldy’s BBQ.  It’s a casual place and we found seats on the patio where we would enjoy a glass or two of house wine while Joanna and I split a Rib and Brisket combo with beans and corn pudding along with an additional side of au gratin potatoes for the table.  Chuck enjoyed his pulled pork sandwich as well, a nice way to finish our enjoyable stay with him in Bend.

We made the eight-hour drive back to Oakland the next day, stopping for lunch at a Baskin Robbins in Redding so dinner that night at Hashi Gawa was just what the doctor ordered.  Jessica, Kris, and Joanna all enjoyed a number of items of sushi while Gemma did damage to a Bento Box, and I had the Chicken Teriyaki.  It was all good and reasonably priced, a gem of a spot in Alameda.

The next morning, we convened at Hasta Muerta Coffee, a favorite empanada place in walking distance from the house.  It is run as a collective which aims to “support all efforts to maintain life and living for the dispossessed in places like Oakland, in which landlords, developers, and high cost of living push low-income people like us to the margins”.  The food and coffee are excellent, so it is easy to encourage their efforts by eating and drinking there.

Later in the day, Joanna and I drove to Novato to meet Mary and Norm at Moylan’s Brewery, where we have joined them in the past.  We started off with a round of beers, a lager, their Mt. Tam Pale Ale and the Stinson Beach Peach Wit before Joanna and I split the Santa Fe Chicken Salad (Iceberg & green leaf lettuce tossed in a chili-lime vinaigrette with roasted corn & black beans topped with jack cheese, tortilla strips, blackened chicken & avocado).  I finished my session with a beer I really like the Kilt Lifter Scottish Ale, a 7.9% perfect example of the style.  My only regret is that I can’t find it anywhere at home to purchase.  And that would wrap up our short road trip before we would embark a couple of weeks later for one that would last two months.  Stay tuned for that series of posts. 

Links

Dutch Brothers: https://www.dutchbros.com/

Crater Lake: https://www.nps.gov/crla/index.htm

10 Barrel: https://10barrel.com/

High Desert Museum: https://highdesertmuseum.org/

Old Mill District: https://www.oldmilldistrict.com/

Baldy’s BBQ: https://www.baldysbbq.com/

Hashi Gawa: https://www.39miles.com/p/16583475

Hasta Muerta Coffee: https://hastamuertecoffee.com/en/

Moylan’s Brewery: https://moylans.com/