April 4 – 7

We arrived in the small town of Doolin and first followed the GPS directions to the trailhead, up a steep bit of road and when we arrived, determined there was no parking and so returned to town and instead found parking in the designated lot there.  We walked about a bit checking out the shops adjacent to where we had left the car, and then the others took off to walk up that very steep road to the start of the trail, and I ducked into J. O’Connors Pub for a pint to tide me over until their return. 

Following up on earlier comments, this was early April and a Monday and yet that pub was crowded, so much so that I felt a little guilty taking up a table for four.  The beer allowed me to overcome that feeling.  Soon enough everyone returned from their brief glimpse of the Cliffs (we’ll cover the Cliffs of Moher later in the trip) we convened at the Ivy Cottage to sit outside in a covered patio and enjoy ordering from a menu with some unique items and yet still featuring some Irish standards. 

Along with a Renegade Lager, I liked the Open Baked Ham Sandwich (Sliced home backed ham with a honey mustard glaze, side salad, honey mustard dressing and served with homemade soda bread).  Some fish and chips and two bowls of very good Atlantic Chowder (Fresh chunks of salmon, cod & smoked haddock in a rich creamy vegetable broth) were consumed and those who had the chowder stated it was some of the best in recent memory.

Finishing lunch at almost two in the afternoon meant that a large meal wouldn’t be necessary that night and we all returned to Greenhill’s to enjoy an in-room picnic that Jessica and Kris put together.  We drank some of the wine we had picked up and sampled from one of the bottles of Irish whiskey we had purchased the day before.  Up ahead of everyone the next morning, Joanna and I again hit the breakfast and when done, gathered with the others to head out about ten miles to visit Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. 

Located in the center of Bunratty village, the castle and the adjoining folk park are run by Shannon Heritage as tourist attractions.  The name Bunratty means “mouth of the Ratty River” in Irish and is another name for the Owenogarney River, which empties into the Shannon Estuary after flowing past the village and castle. 

The first recorded settlement at the site may have been a Norse trading camp reported in the Annals of the Four Masters to have been destroyed by Brian Boru in 977.  Around 1250, King Henry III of England granted the cantred or district of Tradraighe (or Tradree) to Robert De Muscegros.  In 1276, Thomas De Clare, a descendant of Strongbow built the first single tower castle here, but it was destroyed in 1284 and during the next couple hundred years it was destroyed and re-built a few more times. 

Finally, around 1450, the current castle was built by Maccon Sioda MacNamara, chieftain of Clann Cuilein, but around 1500, it came into the hands of the O’Briens (or O’Brians), the most powerful clan in Munster and later Earls of Thomond. They expanded the site and eventually made it their chief seat, moving it there from Ennis.  For the next four hundred years or so it would change hands many times and eventually fall into disrepair until In 1956, when it was purchased and restored by the 7th Viscount Gort, with assistance from the Office of Public Works, saving it from ruin. The castle was opened to the public in 1960, with sporting furniture, tapestries and works of art dating to around the 1600’s.

The castle is impressive and requires climbing many twisty stairs to get to the roof, with what would be a great view when it isn’t raining out.  The Folk Park which sits below the castle is full of different houses and establishments from different periods and lifestyles during the castle’s lifetime.  Similar to Williamsburg or any of the other living history villages, it was well worth the time spent there. 

Once we all finished it was time to eat and so we walked to the surrounding village to stop for lunch at The Creamery.  It was crowded but they found seating for us, crammed into a booth that made for tight quarters but not uncomfortably so.  Drinks were ordered and for my food selection, I would swing the bat at having ham again, this time the Ham Salad Sandwich (thick-cut Limerick ham, crisp lettuce, red onion, ripe tomato, and creamy mayonnaise), because, why not? 

Joanna would be defeated by her large serving of Lamb Stew topped with mashed potatoes (I’ve yet to comment on just how good all of the mashed potatoes we had were throughout the trip) while others enjoyed more Lamb Stew, the Chicken Curry, a Buffalo Chicken Burger and plenty of drinks.  We finished with three desserts, the Sticky Toffee Pudding, a Warm Apple Crumble, and a Homemade Bread and Butter Pudding. 

We all returned to our respective hotels and then gathered again that evening at the Altitude because we wouldn’t get to see the kids the next morning as they would be returning to Dublin for a few days before flying home.  We met at Sir Harry’s again for more dessert, another Sticky Toffee Pudding and a Bakewell Tart (Classic British dessert with a shortcrust pastry base, a layer of jam (traditionally raspberry), and a moist almond-frangipane filling, topped with flaked or slivered almonds, and sometimes finished with icing) and some drinks before closing out the evening in their room.  Later we drove back to the Greenhills to prepare for our next day, picking up our rental car at the Hertz sales outlet just down the street.  We’ll continue there in the next post.

Links

The Ivy Cottage: https://www.theivycottage.ie/

Bunratty Castle: https://www.bunrattycastle.ie/

The Creamery: https://creamerybar.com/